

	 This is the Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) list for GOLF



FAQ for GOLF
============

This FAQ list is intended to cut down on the number of "often asked
questions" that make the rounds here on rec.sport.golf. This FAQ list
will be posted at least once a month. If you don't understand something
in the FAQ List, contact me and I'll attempt to help or else point you
to someone who can. In any case, let me know how I can make the list
more clear.

Send your additions/modifications to:
	
	Marcelo Gallardo        marcelo@deadzone.Princeton.EDU



Contents and Changes
====================

Changes are noted by an * - Additions are noted by a +


	Contents and Changes

	List of Contributors

	List of Golf Archives

	Types of Golf Balls

	Types of Irons

	Types of Woods

	Types of Shafts

	Types of Grips
		
	Scoring/Handicapping Systems

	What causes / How do I cure a slice/hook

	What clubs should I buy

	How do I build my own clubs

	USGA Course Rating Information

	Handicap Information

	Etiquette Tips

	Hitting in Regulation

	USGA Information



List of Contributors to the GOLF FAQ List
=========================================

I would like to thank all the various people who have contributed to
the GOLF FAQ List (both those that submitted questions as well as those
who submitted answers). If I've left you out, PLEASE E-mail me!

In no particular order:

	Dave Tutelman           Mark Koenig
	Paul Bardak             Brian Zimmerman
	Paul Jones              Lothar Bittner
	Steve Blessing          James F. Tims
	Chester Lee Barber      Jonathan Reeve
	York Davis              Jack Davis
	Paul Stroud             Hal Hansen
	Steve Blessing          John Campbell
	Randy Schrickel         Peter Rigsbee
	Mark Dowdy              Jeff Lovelace
	Dana Dawson             Dave Stokes
	Alan Greenspan



List of Golf Archives 
=====================

An archive consisting of information related to golf is being kept on
deadzone.Princeton.EDU. 

The "articles" deal with things ranging from handicapping systems and
programs, to club making and design, and even a few GIFs of various
courses.

The files in this archive are available by either anonymous FTP or via
a mail server.

If there is any information you would like to see placed in the
archives, either drop them off via Anonymous FTP, or send them via mail
to marcelo@deadzone.Princeton.EDU.

Mail Server
-----------

There lives a mail server that will get files from the archive and mail
them to you. If you send mail to "listserv@deadzone.Princeton.EDU",
with the commands in the body of the message, you should receive the
files via mail within a few days (usually the same day).

So for example if you wanted the clubdesn.0 article, you would send
mail to "listserv@deadzone.Princeton.EDU" with a line in the body which
looks like this...

	get golf clubdesn.0
	
You can retrieve several files at the same time by adding the commands
on separate lines like so...

	get golf clubdesn.0
	get golf clubdesn.1
	get golf clubdesn.2
	get golf clubdesn.3
	
If you need any more help, you can send a message to the mail server
(listserv@deadzone.Princeton.EDU) with the message of "help" (without
the quotes), or send mail to marcelo@deadzone.Princeton.EDU.

Anonymous FTP
-------------

deadzone.Princeton.EDU (128.112.64.170) is also accessible via
anonymous FTP. For more information on how to use anonymous FTP, please
send mail to marcelo@deadzone.princeton.EDU.



Types of Golf Balls
===================

Balata vs Surlyn
----------------

	Balata and Surlyn are ball-covering materials. But there are
	typically other differences between balata and surlyn balls
	besides the cover.

Balata
------

	A balata covered ball is typically a three-piece ball: a solid
	core wound with rubber and covered with balata. There has been
	a lot of discussion as to what "balata" is. Let's just say that
	balata is a soft substance which leads to cuts and nicks. This
	"softness" is said to offer "better playability" which is to
	say that the golfer can "shape" his/her shot (fade/draw), and
	get more "action" (backspin) on the greens.

Surlyn
------
	
	A surlyn covered ball is typically a two-piece ball: a solid
	core with the surlyn cover. Surlyn is a man made "uncuttable"
	substance which is designed to eliminate the cuts and nicks.
	The drawbacks of the harder ball are that it is more difficult
	to "shape" his/her shot (fade/draw), and get "action"
	(backspin) on the greens. 
	
Quick Comparison
----------------

	** Balata **                    ** Surlyn **
	
	1) Softer cover                 1) Harder cover
	   * Better spin                   * Not as much spin
	   * scuffs and cuts easily        * resists scuffs and cuts

	2) "Works" the ball better      2) More distance
	   because of spin
	   (Draw, fade, backspin)

	3) Usually three-piece ball     3) Usually two-piece ball
	   (Liquid-filled core,            (Solid core and cover)
	   wound rubber, and cover)

	4) Usually more expensive:      4) Usually less expensive:
	   * Higher first cost             * Lower first cost
	   * Shorter life                  * Longer life

Compression 
-----------

	Compression of a golf ball is designed to give more "feel" with
	lower compression, and more distance with higher compression.
	Typical compression ratings are between 80 and 100, with most
	players using a 90 compression ball as a compromise. While
	neither the distance issue or "feel" issue has ever been
	proven, above average golfers tend to agree that hitting a 100
	compression ball feels like "hitting a rock".

Notes
-----

	Now what you really want to know: Determining the type of ball
	you should use, as well as the compression is purely
	preference. Some people find that a surlyn covered ball is
	quite playable, while others feel they need the "action" a
	balata ball gives. I generally play whatever ball I find while
	searching for the ball I lost, but then again I'm not on the
	PGA tour.



Types of Irons
==============

Investment Cast
---------------

	A "positive" or master model of the clubhead is made, usually
	made of aluminum, which contains all engraved markings, scoring
	lines, and even the hosel hole. Wax is injected into the
	master, which yields a positive "wax" clubhead. The clubhead is
	then dipped into ceramic several times to produce the negative
	mold. The wax is then melted, and stainless steel poured into
	the ceramic mold. When the ceramic casting is removed, you have
	the clubhead ready to be painted.

Forged
------

	Forging a club is very similar to what the village blacksmith
	used to do. Dies are "sunk" or cut, by milling the desired
	impression, and forging is accomplished with a "drop hammer".
	The manufacturer is then presented with a raw forging, which is
	a close approximation of the clubhead desired. The clubhead
	must then be finished by milling, grinding and drilling.

Muscleback 
----------

	A Muscleback iron, also known as a "blade", has generally been
	associated as a "forged" iron. While the manufacturing process
	isn't really important, the design of the clubhead is. The
	muscleback iron distributes the weight evenly throughout the
	entire head, producing a small "sweet spot" in the center of
	the head. This is to say that a shot hit in the center of the
	face will produce a longer, straighter flight trajectory. Shots
	which aren't hit pure (off-center) will produce a shorter,
	unpredictable flight trajectory.

Cavity Back
-----------

	A cavity back iron, also known as perimeter weighted, has
	generally been associated as an investment cast iron. Again
	while the manufacturing process isn't really important, the
	design of the clubhead is. The cavity back iron distributes the
	weight around the perimeter of the head, producing a large
	"sweet spot". This makes the off-center shots more forgiving,
	flying longer and straighter, than an off-center shot with a
	muscleback iron.

Quick Comparison
----------------

	** Investment cast **           ** Forged **
	
	Usually a Cavity back           Usually a Blade or Muscleback 
	Peripheral weighting            Central weighting
	More forgiving                  Better "feel"
	Stainless steel                 Carbon steel & chrome

Notes
-----

	Now what you really want to know: When investment cast heads
	were first introduced, several companies claimed that the
	"feel" of the head was lost. These same companies also claimed
	it was more difficult to "work" the ball with the cast heads.
	Keep in mind that most golfers tend to believe that a
	muscleback iron (usually forged) produces more "feel" than the
	cavity back models (usually investment casted). They also say
	that it is easier to "shape" the shot using the blades over the
	perimeter weighted clubs. Before making a decision, you should
	try a few muscleback and cavity back irons and see for
	yourself. For more information please refer to Dave Tutelman's
	"Designing golf clubs" articles.



Types of Woods
==============

Wood 
----

	There are basically two types of wood used, persimmon and maple.
		
		* Solid heads are usually persimmon.
		* Laminated ("plywood") heads are usually maple.

	Persimmon heads are made by using a sophisticated turning
	machine. The process is much like making a duplicate key for a
	lock. The second, and most commonly used, wood is laminated
	maple. Generally, 1/16-inch veneers of maple are laminated
	together much like a sheet of plywood. Then the veneers are
	heated and pressurized, and finally turned like the persimmon
	heads. While many golfers indicate that they have a more solid
	feel at impact with persimmon heads, studies show no support of
	this. Other golfers prefer the laminated maple, reasoning that
	they last longer. Presently it costs roughly three times as
	much to use persimmon as it does laminated maple.

Metal 
-----

	Investment cast metal heads have gained popularity, mainly
	because of the added control of peripheral weighting (which was
	not a true design goal, but a product of the casting process to
	achieve proper weight). The stainless steel heads are cast
	hollow to restrict excessive weight, and usually filled with
	polyurethane to muffle impact noise. Metal "wood" heads have
	also been noted as adding distance to center and off-center
	shots.

Graphite 
--------

	The same material that is used for shafts is also used to make
	graphite heads. There are two subtle variances in manufacturing
	techniques. In one case, the graphite prepreg is mixed with an
	ABS plastic, and is injection molded into a head. In the second
	version the prepreg is given an epoxy base and the mixture is
	compression molded. Graphite heads are manufactured with the
	same weight as the wood and metal heads, but are generally much
	larger than conventional heads. This increases the size of the
	"Sweet spot". No tests yet have proven graphite heads to be
	more forgiving or longer than other materials.

Oversized
---------

	The general consensus is that "oversized" heads, generally made
	of stainless steel or graphite, create a larger "sweet spot".
	This produces a longer and straighter flight trajectory on
	off-center hits. When using stainless steel, the walls of the
	head must be made thinner to keep the overall weight "normal"
	(191-205 grams for a 1 wood). This has caused some metal
	"woods" faces to "crush" or dent. For this reason, some
	manufacturers are bringing "Mid-sized" metal woods to market,
	which allows the "sweet spot" to stay large, yet keeps the
	walls of the head thick to prevent denting.

Metal with Composite Face
-------------------------

	In conjunction with "oversized" clubheads, manufacturers are
	starting to use "face inserts" (normally plastic, graphite or
	lightweight metals). This allows them to produced the larger
	sized heads without worrying about the face crushing or
	denting. This also allows them to keep the overall weight of
	the head down. Face inserts, in metal "woods", is a fairly new
	design, and tests regarding their playability and forgiveness
	have not been published.

Notes
-----

	Now what you really want to know: The type of "wood" you should
	use can only be determined by what "feels right". While metal
	and graphite heads can offer forgiveness on off-center shots,
	some argue that you lose the feel you receive from true "wood"
	heads. Like the irons, you should try several before buying.



Types of Shafts
===============

	I found this to be the most difficult FAQ to answer. The shaft
	is the most complex piece of a golf club, and probably the most
	important. With varying degrees of flex, flex locations,
	weight, length, materials, torque, etc., an article devoted
	entirely to the shaft is needed, but not available. I'll do my
	best to answer some of the questions regarding them.

Steel
-----

	Steel shafts are generally made from either carbon steel or
	stainless steel. For the most part, the manufacturing process
	between the two are similar. A steel strip is rolled into a
	tube, and is drawn over a mandrel until the diameter and wall
	thickness are reduced to their exact specifications. At this
	point the step pattern is formed on the shaft. Then the walls
	are made thinner at the grip and thicker at the tip to give the
	shaft its flex characteristics. Then it is hardened, tempered,
	straightened and stress relieved. The final step is to polish
	and chrome plate the shaft. One of the best features of the
	steel shaft is the ability to have the same "feel" throughout
	the entire set. This means that the stiffness in the 3 iron
	will will be the same as the 9 iron. Other features are its
	durability and price.

Graphite
--------

	Graphite shafts are made from a graphite tape. The tape, which
	has an epoxy binder, is wrapped around a steel mandrel. The
	wrapped shaft is then temperature cured and the mandrel
	removed. The raw shaft is then sanded and cut to proper
	length, at which point it receives a clear or colored paint
	coating. Its most talked about feature is its light weight. It
	also helps dampen the vibration caused by clubhead impact with
	the ground. A few of the drawbacks are the "feel" of the shaft
	(some people complain that a stiff graphite shaft does not feel
	like a stiff steel shaft), the stiffness is not consistent
	throughout a set, and its price tag.

Titanium
--------

	I have very little information regarding the titanium shaft and
	its manufacturing process. Among some of its features are its
	weight (lighter than steel), and its vibration dampening. Some
	complaints are that the shafts are too stiff, and it carries a
	big price.

Stiffness
---------

	The stiffness, flex, or deflection of a shaft defines the
	bending characteristics of the tube, when a load is applied to
	the shaft. The most common shaft flexes are designated as X
	(extra-stiff), S (stiff), R (regular), A (man's flexible), or L
	(ladies'). For people with high swing speeds, it's desirable to
	have a stiffer shaft to keep the club head from lagging
	behind. For people with slower swing speeds, the more flexible
	shafts offer an extra "kick" at the bottom of the downswing to
	help propel the ball.

Kickpoints
----------

	The kickpoint, bendpoint, or flexpoint defines where the shaft
	will bend. It affects the trajectory of the shot; the higher
	the kickpoint, the lower the trajectory. The three points:
	High, Mid, and Low offer different flight trajectories: low,
	mid, and high respectively. For someone that generally hits the
	ball with a high shot trajectory, a High kickpoint is desirable
	in a shaft. For someone with a low shot trajectory, a Low
	kickpoint helps get the ball airborne and on a higher flight
	path.

Torque
------

	Generally torque is a rating applied to a graphite shaft. It
	specifies the "twisting" characteristics of the shaft. The
	normal torque rating of a steel shaft is about 2.5 degrees. The
	general range of torque ratings found on graphite shafts are
	from 3.5 to 5.5 degrees, although it is possible to get shafts
	with lower or higher ratings. The higher the torque rating, the
	more the shaft twists for a given twisting force. The torque
	rating also seems to be tied to the stiffness of a shaft. The
	lower the torque rating, the stiffer the shaft.

Notes
-----

	Now what you really want to know: The type of shaft a person
	should use is one of the most often asked questions. It is also
	one of the most unanswered questions. Choosing the material,
	flex, and kickpoint of a shaft will depend entirely on what
	"feels" right when you swing the club. Someone with a high
	swing speed may choose a steel shaft with a flex rating of X
	and a low kickpoint, while someone with the same swing speed
	may choose a graphite shaft with a flex rating of R and a high
	kickpoint. The general consensus is see your local Pro and see
	what he/she recommends. Make your decision from there. For more
	information please refer to Dave Tutelman's "Designing golf
	clubs" articles.



Types of Grips
==============

Rubber 
------

	Rubber grips are made by adding granulated cork, as well as
	other materials in the liquid rubber. The "cork" serves to
	displace the rubber, and is the reason many grips are called
	"composition" grips. It also makes the overall weight of the
	grip lighter. The rubber/cork blend is checked to assure the
	proper viscosity, and is then molded in a high pressure molding
	machine. After molding, the grips are sanded and painted. Some
	of the features of rubber grips are: easy installation,
	"reminder ribs" for hand placement, and they are less
	expensive.

Leather
-------

	Most of the "stars" over forty use leather, while the younger
	players use various rubber molded grips. The reason has very
	little to do with the quality or playability of the grip, but
	simply a difference in what each generation has been accustomed
	to. One of the features of leather grips (generally made of
	cowhide or calfskin) is that they have a nice soft, pliable,
	tacky feel. A few of the drawbacks are its difficulty to
	install, and its price.

Cord/Half-Cord
--------------

	Most of the more popular rubber models come in an optional
	"cord" grip, in which strands of fabric thread are embedded in
	the rubber grip. This makes for a better non-slip contact with
	hand or glove, especially when wet with rain or sweat. However,
	it does wear out gloves faster than non-cord grips. (Hands,
	too. :-)

	Many of the "cord" models also come as "half-cord", in which
	the top of the grip (where your thumbs are) are smooth rubber
	and the bottom (where your fingers wrap around the club) are
	cord.

Quick Comparison
----------------

	** Rubber Grips **              ** Leather Grips **

	Slip-on design                  Usually wrapped spiral design
	Easy to install                 Harder to install
	Less expensive                  More expensive
	Rough when corded               Natural soft, tacky feel
	
Oversized/Undersized
--------------------

	Grips come in a standard size, but can be padded to a larger
	diameter with tape on the shaft under the grip. It is also
	possible to get larger and smaller diameter grips. A few of
	the pros and cons:

	** Oversized **                 ** Undersized **
	
	For larger hands                For smaller hands (most women)
	Minimize arthritis pain
	Decreases hand action,          Increases hand action,
	promoting a slice               promoting a hook

Notes
-----

	Now what you really want to know: The type of grips a person
	uses will be based on "feel". Some people like the natural soft
	feel of the leather grips, while others refuse to use anything
	but corded composite grips. Try going to a local golf shop and
	seeing which grips "feel" right - and you can afford.
	


Scoring/Handicapping Systems
============================
	
	All of the following information was taken from articles posted
	to rec.sport.golf with permission from the authors.



** Handicapping Systems **

Quick Reference Allowance (QRA)
-------------------------------

	The USGA has developed a simple, but relatively effective
	estimator of a player's ability called "QRA" for "Quick
	Reference Allowance." QRA is not a substitute for the USGA
	Handicap System, but can produce fairly equitable results and
	is the best system for handicapping the otherwise
	"un-handicapped."

	To create a player's QRA, the tournament committee simply asks
	each un-handicapped player to submit his three best scores made
	on a regulation course (with par of 68 or more) in the last 12
	months. Combine these scores with any previous scores that the
	player has made in a tournament in the past two years.

	The player's QRA is the second best score minus 70 for men or
	73 for women.

Modified Peoria System
----------------------

	The next best alternative, according to USGA studies, is to use
	a hole score selection system, often called the "Peoria
	system." Under this system, a player learns his handicap after
	the round is completed. By this method, the committee secretly
	selects a par-3 hole, a par-5 hole and four par-4 holes from an
	18-hole course. The par-4s should be representative in length
	and difficulty with two chosen from the front nine and two from
	the back nine.

	A modified Peoria handicap is calculated by adding the player's
	strokes over par on the six selected holes, and multiplying by
	2.8. This will equal the player's allowance to be deducted from
	his gross score. The maximum hole score for allowance purposes
	is three over par on par-3s and 4s and four over par on
	par-5s.

Callaway System
---------------

	The Callaway System is a so-called "one-round" system or
	"worst-holes" system that compresses the spread of gross scores
	when converted to net scores. It is not a reliable handicap
	system and produces a result such that the player with the
	lowest gross score almost always becomes the low net score
	winner. Most players with higher gross scores are given net
	scores within a few strokes of the winner so that most players
	can feel competitive.

	By the Callaway System, a player's allowance is determined
	after each round by deducting from his gross score for 18 holes
	the scores of the worst individual holes during the first 16
	holes. The table below shows the number of "worst hole" scores
	he may deduct and the adjustment to be made, based on his gross
	score.

Scheid System
-------------

	The Scheid System is an alternative "worst-score" system, that
	has two advantages over the Callaway method:

	(1) It allows for a wider range of scores (up to 151)

	(2) It gives players who normally cannot compete for low gross
	score an opportunity to win.

Notes
-----

	Please refer to the article on "Handicap Systems" for more
	information and the tables.



** Scoring Systems **

Stroke Play
-----------

	(also called Medal Play)
	
	Low gross -- no adjustment for handicap 

	Low net -- subtract your handicap, low score wins

Match Play
----------

	Two players play head to head. Total strokes are not important.
	The winner is based on who wins the most holes. The match is
	over when one player is ahead by more holes than the number of
	holes remaining.

Stableford
----------

	Points are allocated based on the net score of each hole.
	Handicaps are allocated based on the index of each hole.

	You deduct the allocated handicap per hole from the score on
	the hole and the points are allocated against the equivalent
	net score for the hole. 

	The exact points which are allocated seem to vary.

Best-Ball
---------

	This refers to a team event which may comprise 2, 3 or 4
	players. Each player will have his/her stroke allowance and the
	lowest net score would be recorded at each hole. The total for
	the complete round would be the teams best-ball score.

Scramble
--------

	Normally a team of 4. Each player tees off at each hole and
	then the team selects the ball which is in the best position
	and ALL play from that spot. This repeats for all shots until
	the hole is finished.

Foursomes
---------
	
	This is where 2 players play one ball hitting alternative
	shots. One player will tee off at all the odd numbered holes
	and the other at the even numbered holes, no matter who was the
	last player to play on the previous hole.

Par
---

	Similar to stableford as far as the allocated shots are
	concerned but you either win, halve or lose the hole (+ 0 -).
	Its a little tougher, as anything worse than a net par is a
	loss. At the end you add up your wins against your losses.

Chapman
-------

	(2 man teams)

	Each player hits a tee shot. They then each play a second shot
	using their partner's ball. At this point, they select the best
	ball and the player who did not hit it plays, alternating shots
	until the ball is holed (only the first two shots are hit by
	both players).

Pinehurst
---------

	(2 man teams)

	Pinehurst is similar to the Chapman format, except that each
	player hits a drive, and the best drive is then chosen and
	players alternate in from there.Unlike the Chapman, players do
	not BOTH hit second shots from their partners drives.

Hero-Bum
--------

	(4 man teams)

	The best and worst scores are counted (net or gross).

Notes
-----

	Please refer to the article on "Scoring Systems" for the full
	text.



What causes / How do I cure a slice/hook
========================================

What causes it
--------------
	
	For the most part, a hook or a slice is caused by the clubface
	being opened or closed upon contact. Most people tend to agree
	that an inside-to-out swing plane causes a hook, and an
	outside-to-in swing plane causes a slice.

How do I cure it
----------------

	Go see your local Golf Professional!!!



What clubs should I buy
=======================

	Well, you could start by sitting down and reading through this
	document. By honestly judging your abilities, you may be able
	to decide if you need peripherally weighted or muscleback
	clubs. Once you have an idea of what type of clubs may help
	your game, go see a local professional or clubmaker.



How do I build my own clubs
===========================

	Start off by ordering some catalogs from some of the component
	vendors (an annotated list is available in the archives). While
	you are waiting for the catalogs to arrive, get some of the
	articles regarding club design and assembly which are available
	in the archives.

	Let us know how your clubs turn out!



USGA Course Rating Information
==============================

	The following information is a brief explanation. For more
	information please refer to the "Slope Information" article by
	Randy Schrickel.

YARDAGE Rating
--------------

	"Yardage Rating" is the evaluation of the playing difficulty
	based on yardage only. It is the score a scratch player on his
	game is expected to make when playing a course of average
	difficulty.

USGA COURSE Rating
------------------

	"Course Rating" is the evaluation of the playing difficulty of
	a course for scratch players. Course Rating is expressed in
	strokes and decimal fractions of a stroke, and is based on
	yardage and other obstacles to the extent that they affect the
	scoring ability of a scratch player.

	Courses are rated by authorized golf associations, not by
	individual clubs.

USGA SLOPE Rating
-----------------

	"Slope Rating" reflects the relative playing difficulty of a
	course for players with handicaps above scratch, whereas Course
	Rating is based solely on difficulty for the scratch player.
	The lowest Slope Rating is 55 and the highest is 155. The
	average Slope Rating for men and women is 113.



Handicap Information
====================

Getting an "Official" Handicap
------------------------------
	
	There are a few ways of getting an "official" handicap. The
	easiest way is to become a member of a local course. Although
	this can sometimes be expensive ($100 and up), it does entitle
	you to a few extra benefits - such as reduced green fees,
	preferred starting times, as well as an chance to play in club
	sponsored tournaments and meet new people.

	Another way to get an "official" handicap is to join a local
	golf "association". For a small fee (+/- $40) they will
	establish a handicap for you. Depending on the association, you
	may also get reduced fees at certain clubs, as well as being
	able to play in association sponsored tournaments and meet new
	people.

Calculating a Handicap Index
----------------------------
	
	It is possible to calculate your own handicap index, although
	it may not be accepted for use in tournaments. None the less
	you can calculate your index and use it to keep track of your
	progress, and/or use it when playing with other people.

	The USGA Handicap Index is usually based on the best 10 of your
	last 20 valid 18-hole rounds, but can be computed from fewer
	rounds. For each round, you will need to know both the USGA
	Course Rating and Slope.

	The usual first step is to compute your "Adjusted Gross Score"
	according to the "Equitable Stroke Control" (ESC) procedures.
	To calculate the Adjusted Gross Score, you first calculate the
	Course Handicap based on the slope of the course you are
	playing using your index. This will determine the maximum score
	for each hole (ESC).  If you haven't yet established a handicap
	index, then you are to start with the base index which is 36.4
	for men and 40.4 for women. From your Adjusted Gross Score you
	compute the "Stroke Differential" for that round according to
	the following formula:

				(AGS - Rating) x 113
		Differential = ------------------------
					Slope

	You should *ROUND* the Differential to the closest tenth (one
	place after the decimal point).

	Ideally, you'll have your last 20 Differentials, of which you
	take the lowest 10, average them, multiply the result by 0.96
	(96%), and *DROP* (not round) any digits after the tenths
	digit.

Equitable Stroke Control
------------------------

	For handicap index purposes *ONLY*, there are limits to the
	maximum number of strokes you are allowed to take on any given
	hole. If you take more than that, the score you use to compute
	the Stroke Differential for that round must be adjusted
	downward by the number of strokes you exceeded the limit. These
	limits are based on your Course Handicap (not your 
	Handicap Index). The ESC procedure was changed early this year
	to a simpler method. All you need to do is remember this
	simple table:

		 Course         Maximum Strokes
		Handicap        Allowed per Hole

		9 or Less               6
		10 - 19                 7
		20 - 29                 8
		30 - 39                 9
		40 - 49                10
		50 or more             11

	For more information regarding calculating and using your
	Handicap Index, see the files regarding calculating your
	handicap.



Etiquette Tips
==============

** Proper Etiquette **

	Do not leave your ball in the hole when you make a putt/chip.
	Golfers are a superstitious lot and many think that their ball
	will not fit in the hole if there is already another one in
	there.

	If you putt/chip your ball near the hole and do not plan to
	putt out, mark your ball with a coin or ball-marker. Aside
	from being a distraction, other players will incur a 2 stroke
	penalty if they play a putt from the green and their ball hits
	yours.

	As much as it may interest you, do not stand directly behind
	another player's intended target line. This is a violation of
	the rules if the player is your partner and otherwise
	distracting because the player can usually see you out of the
	corner of his/her eye.

	When playing for the first time with someone, be conservative
	at first about complimenting or critiquing a shot. Follow the
	lead of his friends, pay attention to his comments, and wait
	until you have a good understanding of what is a good and bad
	shot for a particular player. Don't assume that everyone's
	standards are the same as yours.

	Invite faster groups to play through.

** Slow Play **

	Be ready to play when it is your turn. Proceed to your ball as
	soon as it is safe and begin preparing for your shot. On the
	green, survey the contours and grain while other players are
	putting if you can do so without being distracting.

	Write your scores on the scorecard when you reach the next
	tee.

	When playing from a cart, drop one player off at his/her ball
	with several clubs and, if it safe, drive the cart to the
	second players ball. This way, the two players sharing the
	cart can both prepare for their shots at the same time.

	If you take a cart and you are not allowed to leave the cart
	path, drive the cart until it is roughly even with your ball
	and take several clubs (maybe the one you think you will need
	and one above and one below) with you to your ball. If you
	really have no idea what club you will need, pull your bag off
	the cart and take the whole thing with you to your ball.

** MOST IMPORTANT **

	If attending a pro tournament, never say "You're the man!"
	after a drive. If you do, and are publicly identified as such,
	your rec.sport.golf privileges will be revoked for a period of
	not less than 2 years per incident.



Hitting in Regulation
=====================

Fairways
--------

	Hitting a fairway is exactly that, your ball comes to rest off
	the tee (except par 3's) in the fairway cut of grass.

Greens
------

	Hitting a green in regulation means that your ball will be on
	the putting surface in 1 shot on a par 3, 2 shots (or less) on
	a par 4 and 3 shots (or less) on a par 5.Just subtracting 2
	putts from the par gives you the "Regulation" number of strokes
	to reach the green.



USGA Information
================


	Joining the USGA costs $25 per year. You get a current rule
	book, nine issues of Golf Journal, with special issues for the
	US and Senior Open, as well as their catalog of golf goodies
	and a bag tag.

	The money helps support the USGA which sponsors 14 various
	amateur tournaments, administers the rules of golf, conducts
	equipment tests, does turf research and much more.

	Write:
		USGA
		P.O. Box 708
		Far Hills, NJ 07931-0708
       or call
		1 (800) 345-GOLF


