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Aromatherapy is an ancient art using the essential oils of plants in
medicine, spicery, and perfumery. Formed in petals, leaves, roots,
resin, barks, stems, seeds, grasses, stalks, and rinds, the essential
oil is generally the part of the plant that we smell. Depending on the
plant, essential oil can be stored in special resin cells, glandular
hairs, pockets and reservoirs, or even the spaces between cells. For a
plant the essential oil is just that: essential. It performs necessary
functions such as attracting certain bugs and birds for fertilization,
and repelling other bugs that may cause harm. The evaporation of these
essences from the plant surfaces shields the plant from the invasion of
natural bacteria and is even considered to be the warming aura that
surrounds and protects from temperature fluctuations. It is sometimes
associated with the spiritual quality of life's energy, so to use the
essential oil of a plant is to use the very best of what a plant has to
offer.


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History

Aromatherapy has appeared in recipes since the beginning of recorded
history and has been steeped in magic and mystery ever since. The
Egyptians are attributed with the first writings on aromatherapy in
about 1580 BC and also, appropriately, with developing a society and
culture deeply connected to the sense of smell. They became very
creative and adept in using essential oils to stimulate this sense.
Their most practical recorded use was to embalm their dead with the oil
of cedar wood. On a more romantic note, and no less important to their
culture, men prepared for a "date" by bathing with particular essential
oils. As traveling opened up isolated cultures, new uses for the oils
became popular and the importance of scent increased. Babylonians and
Arabs perfumed the mortar used to build temples and mosques to surround
themselves with healing and cleansing aromas. Ancient Greeks believed
sweet smells were of divine origin and developed the aromatic bath to
drench themselves in purity. Romans, following the precepts of
Hippocrates, used the oils in the bath for health purposes: "the way to
health is to have an aromatic bath and scented massage everyday."

As the modern age of the 19th century progressed, aromatherapy and
essential oil use became a quaint story of past cultures. Not until a
French cosmetic chemist of the early 1900s began scientific research did
it start to revive. Rene-Maurice Gattefosse devoted his life to
researching the healing properties of essential oils after a
providential accident in his perfume laboratory. After burning his arm
badly he thrust it into the nearest cold liquid, which happened to be a
vat of lavender oil. The pain decreased substantially and, rather than
becoming a normal burn site of inflammation and blistering, the injury
healed quickly without a scar. Shortly thereafter Gattefosse coined the
term "aromatherapy".


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Essential Oils

Essential oils are found in different parts of the plant in varying
concentrations. Oil production depends on the same things that affect a
plants growth: sunlight, nutrients of the soil, air quality, altitude,
etc. This means that to get a good quality essential oil the best
plant-specific growing conditions must be known and followed. Essential
oil manufacturers generally distill their oil right at the growing site
so that the time between harvesting and processing is short. This
preserves the quality and the quantity of the harvest. The primary
method of extraction is steam distillation whereby steam is passed
through hundreds of pounds of plant material in a stainless steel vat to
diffuse the oil. As the steam condenses in a cooling chamber the oil,
which is lighter than water, is easily separated and collected. Citrus
fruits yield their oils through cold pressing. Here, intense physical
pressure is applied to the rind and the oil is squeezed out. It takes an
enormous amount of pla nt material to produce a small amount of
essential oil. For example, 220 pounds of lavender produces only 7
pounds of oil and 60,000 pounds of rose petals are needed to produce 1
ounce of the precious (and very expensive) rose oil.

Another aromatherapy product called an "absolute" is often confused with
essential oils - absolutes are not pure essential oils but are precious
fragrances from plants that do not create enough essential oil to
collect. These fragrances are made by dehydrating the flower petals to
remove the water and to create a concentrate called a concrete. This
gooey mass is then washed in an alcohol solvent which takes on the
fragrance. The alcohol is distilled off and the remaining product is the
absolute. This is a pure plant fragrance and retains certain therapeutic
properties but is not an essential oil. 

Synthetic fragrances are distilled with petroleum and turpentine. They
are often made in an attempt to duplicate essential oils but this is
rarely possible as there are hundreds of chemical components in an
essential oil and not all have been isolated. Synthetic fragrances are
similar only in aroma, not in actual chemical make-up or in therapeutic
action. 


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Using Aromatherapy

Essential oils are most effective through inhalation or absorption
through the skin into the body. They are therapeutically least effective
when taken orally. They are very efficient in leaving the body through
exhalation and perspiration which means they are generally non-toxic. 

Diffusers and atomizers are the usual way of putting an essential oil
mist into the air for breathing. Diffusers, either the electric or
candle variety, heat the essential oil until it evaporates into a mist
or fog, dispersing the aroma into the air. Atomizers are affixed to the
top of a bottle of water mixed with an essential oil; give the pump a
little squeeze to spray the aroma mist wherever you want. Also available
are ceramic rings that fit around light bulbs. They have an indentation
to hold a few drops of oil which heats up with the light bulb and
diffuses into the air. 

Lotions and oils: When essential oils are used on the skin they must
first be put into an oil based carrier first. If a sensitivity to an oil
occurs it is generally due to full strength application onto sensitive
skin . (Tea tree oil, with its wonderful antiseptic properties, is one
of the few oils safe to apply full strength on a small area.) Dilution
in a carrier oil not only protects you from a reaction, it spreads the
oil over a larger area and so stimulates a greater response. Essential
oils tend to increase circulation at the surface of the skin, opening up
the pores. This is the key to overall absorption, and consequently to
the overall health of the skin. Of the pure vegetable oils available to
use for this dilution, jojoba is the heaviest, almost a liquid wax, and
grape seed oil is the lightest. Sweet almond oil is the best all purpose
carrier oil, and apricot kernel, also very light, is easily absorbed by
mature or damaged skin. Massage therapists report wonderful results wit
h grape seed oil because it is so thin, glides easily, and is completely
absorbed. To use an essential oil on a small, specific site mix a drop
into each application of a scrub, mask, pack, or cream. Or, for larger
coverage, add 10 drops per 4 ounces of an unscented lotion. For the
hair, add a few drops of oil to whatever shampoo you are currently
using, or add to a carrier oil and work into the hair as a deep
conditioner.

Baths and massage are the age-old, tested, and reliable way to reduce
stress. Particular oils mixed directly into the bath water or the
massage oil have been reported to increase the stress-reducing
effectiveness of these therapies. Consult the many books available to
learn the oils and recipes that best suit your circumstances and
condition.

In the kitchen essential oils are an easy way to enhance the aroma and
flavor of your culinary delights. As a general rule of thumb use only
two drops of oil for every teaspoon of a spice called for in the recipe.
In baking always add the essential oil to the wet ingredients before
mixing with the dry - this allows for complete dispersal of the oil. Not
all essential oils are safe for consumption. Those that are include:
anise, basil, bergamot, cinnamon cassia, clove bud, ginger, lemon, lime,
orange, pepper, rosemary, sage, spearmint, and tangerine.


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Medicinal Properties

The term aromatherapy is also used to describe a medicinal action on the
body. Today's research is slowly validating the century old practice of
using the oils in antibacterial, antiseptic and antifungal treatments.
The antiseptic properties of Tea Tree oil and the sinus clearing action
of Eucalyptus oils are well known, effective uses that only now are
being substantiated by science. Mr. Gattefosse's experience with
lavender oil on his burn is another old story that is being retold in
the laboratory setting. There is a wealth of information in books and
articles about these home remedies. Look there for specific uses,
attributes and properties of all plant oils.


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Care of Essential Oils

A little care must be taken in handling your essential oils as they are
very volatile. Keep them in dark, air-tight, glass bottles and do not
expose them to heat or heavy metals. You can tell if they are
deteriorating when they become darker and more viscous. Store them out
of children's reach as some oils are dangerous when swallowed. Essential
oils remain potent for 6 months to 2 years with proper care; if you are
unsure of the freshness throw them out.


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Breathe Deep!

Every living thing has its own characteristic scent. We cannot always be
conscious of all the scents that surround us but we do perceive them on
a subconscious level because of the direct connection between our
olfactory nerve and the subconscious part of our brain. This perception
has a certain amount of influence over our feelings, thoughts, and
attitudes, which makes for the sometimes unexpected attraction to
certain people, places and things. Aromatherapy is a way to recreate
those feelings, thoughts, and attitudes naturally - it can be used to
stimulate and energize, to relax and make tranquil. Essential oils have
properties with great potential to protect and heal the body and may one
day be better understood and used commonly for our greater health.
Meanwhile, breath deep, heighten your sense of smell, and enjoy the
therapy of aroma.


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Facial Masks



Normal skin 

1 TBS. unscented mask
1 egg yolk
1 tsp. water
1 small drop Geranium oil
1 small drop Bois de rose oil
Combine ingredients.



Dry skin 

1 TBS. unscented mask
1 egg yolk
1 tsp. Almond oil
2 drops Carrot oil
2 tsp. water
1 small drop Chamomile oil
1 small drop Rose oil
Combine ingredients.



Oily skin 

1 TBS. unscented mask
1 TBS. brewer's yeast
1 TBS. water
1 small drop Rosemary oil
1 small drop Lavender oil
Combine ingredients.




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Baths



Basic 

2 tsp. Avocado oil
2 tsp. Apricot kernel oil
2 TBS. Sweet almond oil
50 drops essential oils of your choice
Add 1 tsp. of this mixture to your bath.



Bubble Bath 

8 oz. Soap flakes or grated unscented soap
2 TBS. Witch Hazel
2 Cups Almond oil
2 Cups spring water


Boil spring water and melt soap in it. Mix witch hazel and almond oil
together and slowly add to the cooled soap mixture. For each bath: 15
drops of the essential oil of your choice mixed with 2 TBS. of above
mix.

Recipes adapted from The Complete Book of Essential Oils and
Aromatherapy, Valerie Ann Worwood, 1991.



For further information on aromatherapy over the Web, visit PlantEssence
Natural Body Care. 

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Sources for our files:
Worwood, Valerie Ann. THE COMPLETE BOOK OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND
AROMATHERAPY, 1991, New World Library.

Ackerman, Diane. A NATURAL HISTORY OF THE SENSES, 1990, Vintage Books.

Tisserand, Robert B. THE ART OF AROMATHERAPY, 1977, Healing Arts Press.

Nowacki, Anne and Doug. ESSENTIAL OILS BRING THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS,
article in Herb Market Review, Spring 1991.

Larson, Kathy. Unpublished research for Frontier Cooperative Herbs,
1991.

Miles, Karen. ESSENTIAL OILS, POP published by Frontier Cooperative
Herbs, 1991.

Nowacki, Doug and Anne. Lecture/seminar. Oct. 9, 1991.


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Copyright Whole Foods Market, 1995, wfm@wholefoods.com

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Reprinted (October 1995) with permission from Whole Foods Market

